Nepal Trek 2009 - May 18, Loshasha to Monju

I'm going to start this blog post with the brief journal entry I did for this day:

"18 May 2009; Monday, 6:58 pm; Monjo --

"Today's trek was pretty rough - from Namche Bazaar we had the 3,000 foot hill to navigate - knee buster from Hell. I am so tired! The scenery was spectacular, with three suspension bridges to cross."

The brevity of that journal entry is a good indicator that I really was quite exhausted. I'm not known for my short letters, essays, or blog postings. That I was so tired at 6:58 pm I couldn't scratch out more than a couple of sentences is atypical for me.


As we left Loshasha, we were still in some spectacular mountain scenery. The alpine biome had transitioned into a scrubby shrub-dominated biome, and as we walked downhill we started to get the first pines and Rhododendrons of the morning.









Here you can see the transition between biomes as you view from the snowline down to the pine forest.











These middle elevations are also where the settlements begin to be much larger with obvious signs of cultivation.










At one of our rest stops there was this yak who seemed very much like a house pet. It was pretty curious about things going on around it.











It was trying very hard to get this woman's attention while she was busy doing some chores.










She finally had to give it a scolding to make it behave. It reminded me of an overgrown puppy.










Rest break for this porter. He's taken the weight of the pack off his shoulders and removed the tump strap from his head. Those walking sticks are essential for this task as well as providing balance for climbing the steep hills.











This view on the way up was very inspiring, but somewhat bittersweet on the way down. On the one hand, it gave a perspective of just how far we had walked to reach Gorak Shep and the views of Everest from Kala Patthar. On the other, this view was a reminder that we would be leaving this now familiar landscape.






This is the view toward Lukla, which would be reached during the next day's trek.











Prayer flags flapping in the wind have a unique sound. I hope I never forget how it felt to see these at the stupas and shrines along the path to Everest.










Back to Namche Bazaar, the largest settlement in the Khumbu region. I had a much better appreciation for this place after having stayed in Dingboche, Lobuche and Gorak Shep.








Ahhhh, stupid me. I didn't buy yak bells in Namche Bazaar, and Thamel in Kathmandu didn't offer ones that looked like they had actually been worn by yaks. The sound of yak bells is another memory I never want to lose.

There is something very comforting about the sound of yak bells. On the trail the tinkle of these bells warned you that yaks were approaching from behind or ahead, and it gave you time to get out of the way - especially on the steep pitches. If you were stuck behind a yak train, it gave you time to rest because their pace was always a bit slower than a typical trekking pace. At our campsites, the sound of these bells was our evening, morning, and, sometimes, nocturnal music.




One of the stupas at Namche Bazaar.















Wash time in the public fountain.













The lower elevation section of Namche Bazaar.













The view from the trail, just before you head down the knee-buster hill.












The last houses before you head downslope.










It was pretty warm once we headed down the mountain and I felt so sorry for the porters carrying these heavy loads uphill. They were sweating buckets, and grunting with nearly every step.

I think this was pretty much my last photo for the descent as I needed to pay close attention to every step. By this time my feet were really hurting, and I think I busted a toe on the way down.





This was one of the suspension bridges we crossed this day. It must have been after we had some time to rest.











The gateway that marks the exit to Sagarmatha (Everest) National Park.











Monju, at last.












I think we were all pretty tired from this long and strenuous day of trekking. John Coleman looks about as down as the local dog in this picture.











I think this is a holly hock. It was growing as an ornamental plant at the Monju guest house.

















Chris Marquardt and Monika Andrae.












Our tents at the Monju guest house.












These are my swollen, blistered, bunioned, calloused, and, most of all, miserably painful feet. They taught me some valuable lessons during the trek: 1) yeah, they hurt - get over it and walk; 2) just do it; 3) baby steps get you there eventually; and 4) who has time to worry about how feet feel when there are so many interesting things to see?






Next morning's tea time; 6 am sharp.

This ritual was one of my favorite things about the trek. Mingmar and Chirri were so sweet to us.











No matter what the weather, snow included, Chirri and Mingmar were there at 6 am to serve us a cup of tea. Thanks, guys!

Nepal Trek 2009 - May 17, Dingboche to Loshasha

"Morning! Tea? Coffee?" This was our daily wake-up ritual, although Steve and I were usually awake before the wake-up call. Chirri (on the right) and Mingmar (left) came to our tent each morning at 6 am to bring us hot tea.

"Yes, please - two teas, two sugars, Thank you!"

"You're welcome!" - the latter was always said with a chuckle. Sherpas don't have an equivalent phrase in their language.



Ah, yes - the conveniences of trekking. Sometimes you had access to an indoor porcelain squat hole, but most of the time the facilities were either a toilet tent with a trench dug for the temporary stay, or something along this caliber.














An outhouse with a squat hole. There was always some form of plant material to kick into the hole for composting. The windows in the back provided some much needed ventilation. One trekking rule I discovered was, "don't blow your nose in the outhouse." Trust me on this one.









For the record.











Gathering before the trek begins. There was always someone that needed to use the facilities before hitting the trail.










This is Tendi, our lead trail Sherpa, in his pink "Smurfette" hat. We all got such a kick out of this hat. I'm sure a trekker left it for him from a previous excursion.















The day was very overcast and so the mountain views were not with us this day. I just reread my journal entry for this section of trail and I must have still been very ill. The entry talks about exhaustion and wishing that I could clear my lungs and nose. I had to give up my pack again, so that's a sure sign that I wasn't feeling well at all.






The scenery from here was missed on the way to Dingboche, also. We were in snow that day and so the views were new to me. I hadn't remembered seeing the alluvial fans coming down off the slopes - another clear sign that the Himalayas are eroding away as they are going upwards.







The trail wasn't too bad in most sections - rocky, but following the river for the most part.











From Dingboche on towards lower elevations, there are signs of permanent settlements all through the region. The stone walls are well maintained and you can see signs of agriculture.









The streams are full of glacial milk - the microscopically ground sediments that come off the glaciers that feed them.
















Time for a workshop session - this one on videography, I think.












Chris Marquardt looks like a pirate saying, "Arrrrgh."












Jon Miller












Pasang Sherpa - he always had a beautiful smile.












Sonam Sherpa - he served as our guide for the trek and in Kathmandu.












More workshop tips being shared.












Here's a look back up the alley.













The ubiquitous porter, carrying a load that is beyond belief.











Most of the porters carry a T-shaped stick that is used to take the load off their shoulders during their rest breaks.

















Burlesque music, please! Jon got a bit warm and decided to take off a layer.












As we returned to lower elevation, more and more settlements appear. Every flat surface along the valleys are used.










The "pure" yaks will soon be left behind as we go to lower elevations. They are adapted to the alpine zone. Below 13,000 feet one usually sees the yak-cow hybrids.









Another tea house under construction. This is a sure sign that tourism drives the economy of this region.











All of the construction is done by hand, including the shaping of stones.












We saw more yaks than ponies, but there are a number of ponies in the villages and you occasionally see one on the trail.










I always enjoyed passing through one of these gates. There are prayer wheels lining the walls inside.











Tengboche, perched atop the ridge.












Lovely, lovely irises. I love them all. I should have been an iris systematist.











I didn't notice the suspension bridge that was strung beneath this bridge on our way up the trail. I think that was because we didn't have a clear view of it from the other side. I much prefer the thought of crossing the sturdy bridge rather than the rickety suspension bridge.








A mountain pony - love that curly hair!













One of my favorite pics of Chris Marquardt. He always had a serious (pissed?) face on when I snapped his photos. He told me this was a look of determination.
















The Stupa at Tengboche. We stopped in Tengboche for lunch. I wasn't feeling well and ended up going inside a tea house to warm up while the rest of the group had lunch outdoors. As I recall, it was windy and chilly. I was cold and needed to warm up.














Below Tengboche, we descended into the Rhododendron forest. The smell of the trail was earthy through this biome.









The rhododendrons were in peak flowering near the top side of their elevational range. As we descended, they were well on the way to producing seed and the flowers were past prime.









The decidious trees were leafing out. This valley will have a very different look in midsummer than it had in late spring.









Kancha Sherpa. He had a terrible toothache on this day. He had the tooth pulled the next day as we passed through Namche Bazaar.

Kancha carried my pack during the climb up to Tengboche. He's Pasangs older brother and I really enjoyed getting to know both of them on the trail.







Steve - he was feeling pretty good this day as I recall.











The rhododendron forest yields to a pine dominated one as we progress down the mountains.











One of the legumes in bloom. If anyone has a clue as to the identity, please post a comment.











Let's see, we've done suspension bridges, steel frame bridges, flimsy wooden plank bridges, and sturdier wooden bridges.











A species of dogwood.














Wild strawberry.














Something in the Asteraceae. Pussy toes comes to mind? Any guesses as to ID?













A species of wild rose.













Another legume species - anyone know this plant?


















This one is a puzzle - I could use some help identifying it.




















Iris - they're so beautiful!











I think this is a cotoneaster.














Euphorbiaceae.














Tea time!















Nap time! Jon Miller and John Coleman are studying the insides of their eyelids.